An Education in Couture Embroidery

Back in April, I was awarded an educational grant by the Greater Columbus Arts Council in order to study with one of the premier British embroidery firms, Hand & Lock. If you saw any of the news coverage of Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee, you will have seen images of their work. In addition to creating some of the world’s most exquisite goldwork embroidery, Hand & Lock is also known for their couture beadwork.

 

I have taught couture style beadwork and embroidery for several years at the Columbus College of Art and Design and several other learning institutions, and I’m always looking to refine my skills and learn new techniques, so when I heard Hand & Lock was coming to the US to teach their methods of tambourwork, I jumped at the chance to study with this nearly 250 year old company.

 

 

Tambourwork is a very old technique that many scholars believe originated in India, where it is still used today. It became very fashionable in 18th century France and one can even see a portrait of Madame de Pompadour sitting at a tabour frame creating embroidery. Tambourwork involves using a tiny crochet type hook to pierce the ground fabric and create a chainstitch. The reason why tambour embroidery is so attractive to the couture houses is because once one is very proficient at it, great speed in working is possible, allowing one to cover vast areas of fabric quickly. I’ve been practicing tambour beading for years, but I think I need 5 more years of practice and I think I will be able to reach my desired speed! Ha ha!

 

I really enjoyed the role reversal and getting to be the student for a change because it’s not often that I am able to spend so much focused time learning new methods and simply experimenting on something with out the pressure of knowing it is a commissioned work. It reminded me how vital this is for my development as an artist. Another unexpected bonus was the fact that the class was filled with other fashion industry professionals (milliners, swimsuit designers, wearable sculpture artists…etc) and it was such a pleasure to meet so many skilled people with similar interests. The class was held in Chicago’s Fashion Incubator space and I found myself having many interesting conversations by chance from just walking the halls and meeting people involved with the program.

 

 

One other spectacular benefit to my trip was stumbling upon the Driehaus Museum, literally. I was wandering downtown with some friends one day and walked past this glorious Gilded Age Mansion. Turns out it is an exquisitely restored home that was turned into a museum, and that museum just happened to have an exhibit of costumes from Downton Abbey on display. It was my spectacular luck that so many of these costumes feature tambour work exececuted in both thread and beads. What a perfect ending to my educational trip!

 

 

 

Inspired and want to learn Tambour, too?

I believe strongly that it is very important to try to ensure that the historic needlearts are passed on to future generations because they are such a deeply rooted part of our human culture and history, and so I want to pass on what I have learned by offering a simplified, 1 day introductory course in tambour beading, in Columbus, Ohio.

Follow this link to learn more and sign up: Tambour Beading July 30th, 2016.