Semper Eadem Corset – Or How to Dress Like David Bowie *and* Queen Elizabeth I, At the Same Time

 

Semper Eadem Corset by Wilde Hunt Corsetry
Metallic Leather, Glass Beads, Gilt Bouillion, and Genuine Beetle Wings.
Photo- Chas Ray Krider
Model – Bekah Winske
Hair – M’lou Mackay-Santilli, Strut the Salon

I created this corset to answer the burning question – “If David Bowie and Queen Elizabeth I were the same person what would they wear?”
I thought that Elizabeth I ‘s motto “Semper Eadem” was particularly appropriate for this piece because I feel like fashion’s frequent fluctuations are actually a strange form of constancy. Trends get recycled and so fashion is ultimately- ” Always the Same”. Click below to read more about my process….

I began with Queen Elizabeth I’s famous effigy stays as my starting point and drafted my corset pattern to use some of the same style lines but with a more extreme waist reduction. Metallic leathers, the metallic genuine beetle wings, and the bold stripes on my corset’s vines reference glam fashion like the styles that were sold at BIBA in the 60’s and 70’s. Inspired by two remarkable jumpsuits which were created by Kansai Yamamoto for David Bowie, I created a gilt machine-stitched lattice work pattern directly on the plum metallic leather for the background of my work. The influence of the lamé fabric and the delicate, thin white lines of the Yamamoto jumpsuits can be seen in my work. And the spikes and studs are a nod to DIY Glam and Punk fashion. Marc Bolan’s sequined jacket provided the color story for my work.

Before I designed the corset I also studied several examples of goldwork embroideries from images online and I visited The Ohio State University Historic Costume and Textile Collection to view a few period embroideries in person. If you missed my post about this experience, click here to read Adventures in Antique Textiles: Part One: Embroidery. Because the Tudor rose is such a renown and frequently used motif, I wanted to treat it in an unexpected and unique manner. I created the 3-D layered petal effect with several pieces of metallic and glitter leather and embroidered them with seed beads. I think the result is a very wearable yet avant garde garment that references the past, yet is thoroughly modern. I personally designed and executed the entirety of the work on this piece with the intention that this artistic and luxuriously hand embroidered corset will be worn and treasured well into the future.

I hope you enjoyed reading about my design process! More images of the Semper Eadem corset may be found in my gallery. And as always, I may be reached for corset commission inquiries at – larissa (at) wildehunt (dot) com.

Larissa